Interview
Shirzanan’s interview with the head of women’s national climbing team
Iran is the only country with national climbing team
Shirzanan: Shabnam Shakourian /translated by Roja Najafi: Many years have passed since a photo of Iranian women climbing Mount Tochal, taken by German climbers, made an interesting news. Since then Iranian women climbed Mount Everest and now they are in Nepal aiming for the 7,952 meters Gyachung Kang peak. Shirzanan got the chance to interview the team couple of hours before their departure. This is an interview with Pouria Parchami, the team’s head and supervisor.
Let’s start with Iranian women’s climbing level and the overall situation: Many say that there is not much there, what do you think?
Unfortunately all branches in women’s sports have shortages and struggling with low budget. Many women like climbing but there are few who get the chance. Women’s climbing has a better situation in Tehran, since Tehran is the capital and have more possibilities for them.
Since you were involved with both women’s and men’s team can you give us a comparison between the two teams?
Well, women are not weaker than men, if that is what you mean, Men just happened to have better facilities and more support from the government. Men’s climbing team has better coaches and training team.
How many female coaches do we have? What is their professional level?
there are a few female climbing coaches, especially in rock climbing we have very few. In national team level we had a few female coaches a couple of years ago who are not active any more.
Tell us abut this trip to Nepal, Gyachung Kang?
From early 2007 the climbing federation planed to send the national team to two climbing range over 7 thousand meters. The Gyachung Kang peak is one of those. We had five sets of preparation camps, which started from the beginning of June. We enrolled 71 female climbers from all over the country and 27 were qualified after the second camp.
What were the qualification measures based on?
well their physical power and strength, their technique and their team work capabilities. Of course the self-restraint was a factor too. In the third camp we stuck with 12 climbers and then in the last camp we selected the 8 best. We were supposed to form a team of 5 to 6 climbers but they were very good and we went with 8.
How long it will get to climb mount Gyachung Kang? How well equipped are you?
About one month, the federation provided some of the basic equipments, but it is an expensive climb and not everyone can afford it. Iran is one of the few courtiers, which has the national climbing team! Climbing is an expensive sport, for proper shoes we are each paying 600 - 700 thousand Tomans (about $900).
We are lucky that climbing image has changed with in the society. For most of our climbing trips we have sponsors.
What would be the reward for the climbers?
Well we kind of equalized each summit and peak a medal: Gyachung Kang is like Asian Silver Medal. Of course the federation and PEO will present prizes to the climbers as well.
For the last question, if a girl wants to join climbing groups, what is the best way?
Well almost in every city and by sure in every province there is a climbing organization groups and committees, who help new comers. It is the best start.
